Revisiting Loden Dager SS11
November 30, 2010, 1:50 am
Filed under: Menswear, Mr. Dool Approves | Tags: , , ,

It’s a peculiarity of the fashion calendar that talking in November about a spring collection that won’t hit stores until March can be considered “looking back.” But by the time SS11 is available for retail, it will have been at least a full 6 months after we could have gotten our first glimpse, via trade shows, fashion week or, for most people, the internet.  The web’s instant gratification only seems to exacerbate the already-short attention span of the industry.  But if you buy into the argument of fashion as art — which, admittedly, is an argument with two pretty solid opposing viewpoints — then there’s something to be said for digesting a little bit, sitting back and giving everything you see some time to breathe before making a judgment, dismissing it and moving on to the next one.

So with that in mind, let’s talk about Loden Dager SS11.

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T Magazine: Common Thugs
July 13, 2010, 10:08 pm
Filed under: Magazines, Menswear | Tags: , , , , ,

T Magazine, the New York Times’ style title that is also sometimes confusingly called The Moment, published an online editorial yesterday called Common Thugs.  Ostensibly tied to the ludicrous and highly-publicized “Stop the Sag” campaign, the photos addressed the resurgence of baggy clothes among high-end menswear designers, referencing early 90’s hip-hop and classic streetwear shapes.  Really, it takes clothes like this to show how much skinny jeans and cropped suits have saturated the market in recent years — enough that these saggy shapes in streetwear really look like a throwback.  More photos from the shoot below.  For credit information, visit T Magazine.

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Junya Watanabe – Spring 2011
July 6, 2010, 9:54 pm
Filed under: Menswear | Tags: , ,

Seeing as the Junya Watanabe show in Paris this season took place on June 25, this post is indeed pretty late.  But, frankly, I had other shit to do in the interim, like appearing in street style videos and you know, going to work.  So I’m going to adhere to the golden adage of “better late than never” with this post, especially because it’s a collection that I enjoyed so much.  I’ve never really been moved by Junya’s clothes before, and admittedly haven’t been as avid a follower of his as I have been of say, Viktor & Rolf or Paul Smith.  But, there was something so refreshingly direct and concise about this collection.  In a menswear world where Comme des Garcons sends skull print dresses down the runway and Calvin fucking Klein, he of Macy’s underwear department fame, suddenly wants us to wear crop tops, it’s also kind of nice to see a fully-realized, clear-minded collection that’s actually wearable and still interesting.  Junya himself said it, according to “They’re clothes I want to wear next summer.” Nothing wrong with that.  If I were skilled at Photoshop, I’d make a collage of Calvin Klein in one of his crop tops and insert it here.  Maybe next season.  More from Junya SS11 (via photos) after the jump.

Seriously, though, those striped blazers: sign me up.

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Yuketen Brass Stud Loafer
May 24, 2010, 11:05 pm
Filed under: Footwear, Menswear | Tags: , , , , ,

And speaking of (capsule), I was reminded today while reading The Black Nouveau of these killer studded loafers from Yuketen that I wanted to post about so badly during the winter show season, but didn’t have imagery to do so.  Thankfully they’ve surfaced at Opening Ceremony, where they’re on sale for a cool $430.  I’m a sucker for unexpected details and these otherwise traditional loafers with a little punkish flair are really doing it for me right now.

Dana Lee AW10 Lookbook
May 24, 2010, 10:34 pm
Filed under: Menswear, Mr. Dool Approves | Tags: , , ,

Back in February, we got a sneak peek at the fall collection from NYC-based designer Dana Lee out in Vegas at (capsule).  Now, a few months closer to these clothes hitting stores, you can see the AW10 lookbook on the label’s site.  Even though Lee recently noted in an interview with Secret Forts that she’s not too concerned with creating “head-to-toe” looks, it’s not hard to imagine leaving the house on a crisp October day dressed like the models here — especially artist Mat Bushell (above), who embodies that downtown, Ginsbergian nerdy-cool in these shots.  These pieces are the basics that provide a solid foundation to any wardrobe — simple enough to be worn season after season, but with enough character to keep you from getting bored.  See some more from Dana Lee after the jump.

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The Long and Sordid History of Leopard Print for Men

Listen, as the proud owner of a pair of acid-washed, elastic waist jeans that resemble nothing more than a pair of maternity pants for men, I’m clearly a big supporter of taking some fashion risks.  But I will admit that the current penetration of leopard print into the world of menswear has given me pause.  Much love to Steven Tyler, but this is a trend I can’t 100% endorse — minus a few exceptions.

Leopard print for men is certainly nothing new.  Countless illustrious men throughout history have donned the skin of this elusive animal, from Dionysus to Alexander the Great, from Dali to Amber Rose.  But it does seem to have some new life behind it.

See exhibits A through G, below:

That would be Burberry, Paul Smith, Acne and A Bathing Ape, among others, not to mention recent looks from Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and Jeremy Scott for Adidas, all making use of the Official Fabric of Menopause.

But just because your spiritual guru does it, doesn’t mean you should, too.

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My Own Private (capsule)

If there’s one thing I learned from this season’s awesome (capsule) shows, it’s that it takes a very specific type of man to rock the drop crotch.  But, if there are two things, it’s that there is still so much out there in menswear right now really worth getting excited about.  Between New York, Vegas and Paris, plus Compass for footwear and (capsule) Women’s, hundreds of brands came together to build some serious buzz and get some big exposure.  Favorites like Mark McNairy (who we can thank when we’re all wearing digital camo cargo pants) lived up to the hype and relative newcomers like Norse Projects made a big impact on their own.

So since I’ve had all of 5 hours to reflect on the trade show season since (capsule) Women’s wrapped this evening, what better time than now to check off a list of some of my own personal favorites from these last five shows, after the jump.

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