Revisiting Loden Dager SS11
November 30, 2010, 1:50 am
Filed under: Menswear, Mr. Dool Approves | Tags: , , ,

It’s a peculiarity of the fashion calendar that talking in November about a spring collection that won’t hit stores until March can be considered “looking back.” But by the time SS11 is available for retail, it will have been at least a full 6 months after we could have gotten our first glimpse, via trade shows, fashion week or, for most people, the internet.  The web’s instant gratification only seems to exacerbate the already-short attention span of the industry.  But if you buy into the argument of fashion as art — which, admittedly, is an argument with two pretty solid opposing viewpoints — then there’s something to be said for digesting a little bit, sitting back and giving everything you see some time to breathe before making a judgment, dismissing it and moving on to the next one.

So with that in mind, let’s talk about Loden Dager SS11.

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Band of Outsiders Saddle Oxfords
February 28, 2010, 3:03 pm
Filed under: Menswear | Tags: , , , , ,

Weeks after the Band of Outsiders AW10 presentation in New York, I keep coming back to these great saddle oxfords.  Everyone was talking about the staging of the presentation (the kid swinging from the chandelier was an inspired touch) but I really think this was a standout collection outside of the theatrical flourishes, too — capped off with smart details like these shoes.

(Photos via Luxist)

Viktor & Rolf & Pringle & Margiela

I realized today that I haven’t posted much of anything from this season’s men’s shows from Paris, New York or London Fashion Weeks.  So, going through some of my favorites from this season* to pull together a highlight reel of my picks, it struck me how well the AW10 collections from Viktor & Rolf, Pringle of Scotland and (Jay-Z’s favorite label to mispronounce) Maison Martin Margiela complement one another.  Sure, everyone makes room for layers in their fall collections, and many designers also use the same muted palette these three labels worked in.  But the way these three design houses mix and match textures, work knitwear into their clothing and keep the focus on suiting as outwear really fits together quite well.  You can see a Viktor & Rolf-esque quality in Pringle’s comically oversized fur gloves; Pringle and Margiela both play with the effect of having a blazer embellished along each side of the front, echoed again in a furry Viktor & Rolf jacket.

So what does it mean that these three very different brands have so much in common within their respective fall collections?  Are we all moving closer still to one giant globalized fashion community?  Are European designers feeding off of one another?  Will Tilda Swinton, the current face of Pringle, and noted Viktor & Rolf aficionado Rihanna start to share a wardrobe like a high school girl and her Cool Mom?

Probably not.  It probably just means that my taste in menswear is pretty consistent.  And that I will take any opportunity to mention Rihanna in a blog post.

Have a look at some of Viktor & Rolf & Pringle & Margiela after the jump below.  Doesn’t that sound like one of those over-played t-shirts from a few years ago?

(*On an unrelated note, I’m usually a big fan of Michael Bastian, and there was some pretty great stuff in his show, but what was up with some of his collection veering dangerously close to Dsquared2 territoryNo bueno.)

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Vegas Bound
February 13, 2010, 3:13 pm
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: , , ,

After a few days of Fashion Week — including the Robert Geller show, pictured above — I’m off to Vegas with (capsule).  Check We Are the Market for updates from the show, and I’ll be tweeting up a storm, too, I’m sure.  See you soon, NYC.