Revisiting Loden Dager SS11
November 30, 2010, 1:50 am
Filed under: Menswear, Mr. Dool Approves | Tags: , , ,

It’s a peculiarity of the fashion calendar that talking in November about a spring collection that won’t hit stores until March can be considered “looking back.” But by the time SS11 is available for retail, it will have been at least a full 6 months after we could have gotten our first glimpse, via trade shows, fashion week or, for most people, the internet.  The web’s instant gratification only seems to exacerbate the already-short attention span of the industry.  But if you buy into the argument of fashion as art — which, admittedly, is an argument with two pretty solid opposing viewpoints — then there’s something to be said for digesting a little bit, sitting back and giving everything you see some time to breathe before making a judgment, dismissing it and moving on to the next one.

So with that in mind, let’s talk about Loden Dager SS11.

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Kitsune SS11

A few months back, I previewed some of the SS11 collection from French collective Kitsune when they exhibited at (capsule) New York and rocked everyone’s collective world with their presentation.  I got to see some of the current collection in person again last week nestled alongside Monitaly and Mark McNairy downstairs at Dover Street Market in London and was reminded of how sometimes it’s just nice to see a brand that does basics really well.

Now, Kitsune has released this teaser video for their spring 11 line.  In the clip, models Hadrien and Nane race each other to put on some of those pastel pants, cardigans and button-downs that you’ll want to get your hands on in a few months.  But let’s be serious: this video is really about watching models in their undies.

Feel bad about your own body until the 2:25 mark, when Hadrien and Nane show you that just like money can’t buy you class, sexiness can’t buy you rhythm.

Street Etiquette: The Black Ivy
September 24, 2010, 3:52 pm
Filed under: Menswear, Time Capsule | Tags: , , , ,

Everyone and their mother has already posted this project from the Bronx’ own Street Etiquette, and for good reason: “The Black Ivy,” Street Etiquette’s tribute to the style and culture of historically Black colleges produced alongside Unabashedly Prep, is a master class in attention to detail.  Every look is pretty much flawless.  These guys are really blowing up, thanks in no small part to support from the blogosphere and from a certain men’s mag who has taken them under their collective wing.  If they keep churning out quality projects like this, they’ll certainly be around for awhile.  Check out the full slideshow at Street Etiquette — the video is even better.

T Magazine: Common Thugs
July 13, 2010, 10:08 pm
Filed under: Magazines, Menswear | Tags: , , , , ,

T Magazine, the New York Times’ style title that is also sometimes confusingly called The Moment, published an online editorial yesterday called Common Thugs.  Ostensibly tied to the ludicrous and highly-publicized “Stop the Sag” campaign, the photos addressed the resurgence of baggy clothes among high-end menswear designers, referencing early 90’s hip-hop and classic streetwear shapes.  Really, it takes clothes like this to show how much skinny jeans and cropped suits have saturated the market in recent years — enough that these saggy shapes in streetwear really look like a throwback.  More photos from the shoot below.  For credit information, visit T Magazine.

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Junya Watanabe – Spring 2011
July 6, 2010, 9:54 pm
Filed under: Menswear | Tags: , ,

Seeing as the Junya Watanabe show in Paris this season took place on June 25, this post is indeed pretty late.  But, frankly, I had other shit to do in the interim, like appearing in street style videos and you know, going to work.  So I’m going to adhere to the golden adage of “better late than never” with this post, especially because it’s a collection that I enjoyed so much.  I’ve never really been moved by Junya’s clothes before, and admittedly haven’t been as avid a follower of his as I have been of say, Viktor & Rolf or Paul Smith.  But, there was something so refreshingly direct and concise about this collection.  In a menswear world where Comme des Garcons sends skull print dresses down the runway and Calvin fucking Klein, he of Macy’s underwear department fame, suddenly wants us to wear crop tops, it’s also kind of nice to see a fully-realized, clear-minded collection that’s actually wearable and still interesting.  Junya himself said it, according to “They’re clothes I want to wear next summer.” Nothing wrong with that.  If I were skilled at Photoshop, I’d make a collage of Calvin Klein in one of his crop tops and insert it here.  Maybe next season.  More from Junya SS11 (via photos) after the jump.

Seriously, though, those striped blazers: sign me up.

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Maison Martin Margiela, Spring/Summer 2011
June 29, 2010, 4:35 pm
Filed under: Menswear | Tags: ,

Mr. Dool Approves: Junya SS11 Striped Blazer

I’ll do a full post of some of my favorites from Milan and Paris sometime this weekend, but this striped Junya blazer is the first thing I’ve seen that I really wanted to own right away.  The whole show is basically like a nicer version of my current wardrobe and I love pretty much every look they sent down the runway today.  Nothing terribly groundbreaking here, just a nice collection of well-executed, wearable clothes.  Yes, please.

Both images via